Tuesday, December 4, 2018

My Deer and Doe Melilot

This pattern (the Deer and Doe Melilot) and I went on a long fitting journey. I honestly don't even remember when it started, but it took me four muslin fittings and quite a few months to get it finished. I can see from my photo roll that I purchased this African Wax print at Golden D'or in Dallas back in April. It took me a while to settle on this pattern for it though.
  Melilot button down

I am so glad that I persevered because I just love this shirt, the fit is great and I am already making another version with long sleeves.

Melilot button down

I had a major sway back to fix with the original draft of this pattern. For my first muslin I tried doing the alteration that I used in my Colette Aster. You can see the details of that adjustment here. It didn't work. I had come up with the idea to use fish eye darts in the back to assist with fitting. They had worked so well with my McCalls 6649 button-down. For my second muslin I went back to the original back pattern piece and only added the darts, that wasn't enough. So for my third take I took a wedge out of the center back by slashing through the waistline and pivoting the pattern piece. This took some length off the side seam in the back but more importantly added ease through the hips and butt. THEN I added in those lovely fish eye darts that I borrowed from McCalls 6649 and voila, the fit is great. I'm still not sure I'm doing any of these adjustments "properly" but I'm doing what works for my body and its the best I've figured out so far.

Melilot button down

Melilot button down

I so love that dipped hem!
And those kimono sleeves are making me swoon.

Melilot button down

I got those awesome textured brass buttons at Super Textiles in Dallas. I think they are perfect with this fabric.

Melilot button down

At first I wasn't sure about this fabric because it is quilting cotton weight and quite stiff. I just loved the print so much that I couldn't not use it. I don't mind the structure of it as much as I thought I would and I'm sure it will soften up with subsequent washing and wearing.

Melilot in the wild
Melilot in the wild under my favorite tree at the Fort Worth Botanic Gardens, the Palo Verde

Melilot Button Down:
View B minus the pockets
Size 38
Alterations: Shortened at shoulder seams, sway back adjustment and added fish eye darts

I am a big fan of Deer and Doe patterns and this is my second make. I have made the Belladonne dress but never got around to blogging it (I should do that its really cute!) and I own the Fumeterre skirt but have yet to make it. I am realizing more and more that once I have a pattern fitted to my liking, making more versions of that pattern makes so much more sense than always moving on to the next thing. Don't get me wrong, I won't ever stop buying new patterns completely but my stash is huge and I can often find what I need out of a pattern that I already own. I am such a slow maker that I will never be the first to make and share a new pattern, and that is ok with me.

Here is a little video I made explaining the pattern alterations. I hope it makes sense!

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