Sunday, October 28, 2018

République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket

I became enamored with the République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket last year. I suppose I really, really liked the version on their website because I also went with chambray for my jacket.
  République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket

This jacket was a long time in the making, and I'm just now blogging it almost a year after finishing it. I downloaded the pdf pattern in December of 2016. It was only in French and I spent some time trying to translate it, but just got frustrated. Luckily for you, it looks like it is now in both English and French. I had purchased my fabrics and batting to quilt, and dyed my lining fabric, but the project came to a stand still, the weather turned warm, and I moved on to other things. At Thanksgiving last year, with my moms help, I made a quilt sandwich, cut out smaller pieces of that sandwich to quilt and got those pieces all quilted on my old Bernina. Quilting the roughly pattern size pieces was much easier than trying to manage one huge quilt sandwich! Thanks for the knowledge mom.

Quilting fabric for Nicole jacket

I made yards and yards of bias tape in a slightly darker chambray for contrast.

IMG_1716

After we got the pieces quilted and the pattern cut out mom helped me muddle through the Welt pockets. Not being able to read French and never having made a welt pocket myself, I relied on mom's experience and we made it work. I am pretty sure our construction method does not match the pattern instructions.

République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket

République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket

République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket

This jacket would have been difficult to muslin because it is made with quilted layers of fabric. I suppose I could have used a thick fabric like a fleece or pre-quilted something or other, but I did not do that. I find the fit to be tight around the armhole. It works fine with only one thin layer but I would not be able to wear more than a long sleeve t-shirt under it. I think this would be easy to fix if I were to make this pattern again. However, as much as I love this jacket I think one is enough. There are other quilted jacket shapes out there to try like the Tamarack. Last year I also had a goal of making myself a quilted puffy vest but never got around to it. Dang my slow sewing habits!

République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket

République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket

I LOVE  the surprise contrast that the hand dyed lining in fuchsia creates. It is just the right pop of color and fun for this otherwise understated jacket.

République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket

République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket

I totally enclosed all of the interior seams (except the armhole) with my hand made bias tape. I love the way it looks on the inside, so neat and tidy.

République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket

République du Chiffon Nicole Jacket: Size 38

Loves: The dropped shoulder, curved hemline, boxy fit, basically the overall design

Dislikes: The tight fit of the armholes

Materials:
2.5 yards Chambray from Joann for the main body
2.5 yards of light weight white cotton that I hand dyed for the lining
Cotton batting, twin size
Self made chambray bias tape (pattern calls for 9 yards)
Dritz 12mm brass anorak snaps

I can't really comment on the pattern instructions as I don't read French and I just made it up as I went. I do love the drafting, aside from the tight armholes, perhaps I should have sized up. This was my first République du Chiffon pattern to sew and I don't think it will be my last. I really want to make the Suzon Shirt, but it only comes in paper format and is a bit expensive with international  shipping. I never considered the Petula top until I saw Sally Oh's version and it is on my list now too.

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